Mount Shasta Guides

Most guided climbs follow Avalanche Gulch, a snow climb of about 7,000 ft from the Bunny Flat trailhead. The first day climbs past Horse Camp (7,900 ft) to a high camp at Helen Lake. Summit day starts in the dark, climbs through the Red Banks and up Misery Hill, and crosses the summit plateau to the top.

Nothing on the standard route is technical, but it is long, steep and at altitude, and you will use crampons and an ice axe throughout. The glaciated north and east sides, by the Hotlum routes, are a step up.

The climbing season usually runs from April to June and sometimes into July, while Avalanche Gulch still holds firm snow. As it melts out, rockfall in the gulch increases, and late-season parties move to other routes. Winter ascents happen, but storms on Shasta are serious.

Everyone going above 10,000 ft needs a Summit Pass: $25 per person for three days, or $30 for a calendar year, with climbers under 16 exempt. A wilderness permit is also required and free. Groups are limited to ten, and human waste must be packed out.

Guiding on Shasta-Trinity National Forest land needs a Forest Service permit, and the forest publishes its list of permitted outfitters, among them Shasta Mountain Guides and Sierra Wilderness Seminars. Ask any guide below which permitted service they climb with.

A guided Avalanche Gulch climb costs about $1,400 for two days and $1,600 for three, at up to three climbers per guide. Check what is included: some services cover the Summit Pass, permits and group meals, and most rent the boots, crampons and axe you will need.